Boston
The bottlenecks in Beantown have eased since the recent opening of the Big Dig, a colossal tunnel under the city. This makes driving above ground far more pleasurable, allowing visitors to more fully appreciate Boston's wealth of Colonial-era monuments and elegant brick townhouses - not to mention getting to Fenway on time for a Red Sox game. The American Revolution was born here, and this cradle of liberty still rocks, its streets thronged with students from the city's more than 30 colleges.
Suggested Driving Tour
DAY 1
SoWa
Tealuxe
DAY 2
Institute of Contemporary Art
Wally's Cafe
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SoWa
The quaint Back Bay is a tourist magnet, but Boston's most happening neighborhood is SoWa (South of Washington Street), which stretches from Massachusetts Avenue to Chinatown. Part of the stylish South End, this once gritty area throbs with cultural energy, full of great ethnic restaurants and art studios. Drive along Washington Street, the coolest strip and nexus of quirky home-furnishing stores catering to young pioneers who need bits and pieces for their new digs. The Victorian architecture inspires free-thinking SoWa residents to fight to keep all new original businesses in the area rather than chains. Every Sunday through October 31st it's especially worth a jaunt, since local farmers; photographers; painters; and jewelry, hat and handbag designers set up booths at the South End Open Market (at 540 Harrison Avenue).
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Tealuxe
From SoWa, head north on Massachusetts Avenue to fabled Newbury Street for a tea break. Boston threw the biggest tea party in history, so it seems only right to skip the usual coffeehouse and hit a teahouse instead. And not just any teahouse. Tealuxe has over 100 varieties, from your basic breakfast tea to rare imports, from smoky to fruity flavors. The expert staff is steeped in tea knowledge, happy to make suggestions to fit your mood or help you on the mend. If the weather cooperates, have a pot of tea and fresh baked scones on the outdoor patio, great for people-watching. 108 Newbury Street, (617) 927-0400.
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Institute of Contemporary Art
By all means, follow the three-mile long Freedom Trail, a yellow brick
road (actually a red line) tour of Boston's historic landmarks, including
the Paul Revere House, the Bunker Hill Monument and Old North Church.
Then come back to the present at the centrally located Institute of
Contemporary Art. Boston has a marathon of museums, most of them of
the landscape/still life/portrait variety, but this one's a real change
of pace. Cutting-edge creations - provocative, stimulating, experimental
works - show a fresh perspective. Constantly changing exhibits are
fanned out among three levels, linked by dramatic staircases. Not
for strict conformists, the ICA attracts Boston's vanguard, a young,
smart, hip crowd. 955 Boylston Street, (617) 266-5152.
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Wally's Cafe
"Jazz is freedom," said Thelonious Monk, so another stop along Boston's Freedom Trail has to be Wally's, a raffish jazz club with a lot of soul. Hipster college kids and jazz aficionados mob this 1947 classic, the kind of hideaway serious music lovers are always looking for. And it's easy to find, smack in the center of town. National acts, local performers and talented Berklee College of Music students on the rise take the stage 365 nights a year. No matter how old-school, Wally's is still with it. And one thing's for sure: You'll never hear anything played the same way twice. 427 Massachusetts Avenue, (617) 424-1408.
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